Quick Answer
A standard mandolin uses 8 strings arranged in 4 pairs, called courses. Each pair is tuned in unison, with the four courses most commonly tuned G D A E from low to high.
We currently make two complete mandolin string sets for standard 8-string mandolins: Light (M1036PB) and Medium (M1140PB). Both use 92/8 phosphor bronze on the wound G and D courses and plain steel for the A and E courses. All eight strings use loop ends.
The main difference between our two sets is gauge:
| Set | E | A | D | G |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Light M1036PB | .010 | .015 | .024w | .036w |
| Medium M1140PB | .011 | .015 | .026w | .040w |
Each gauge appears twice in the complete set because each mandolin course uses two strings tuned to the same pitch.
If you prefer a lighter feel, our Light set is the place to start. If you prefer a firmer feel and heavier lower courses, consider our Medium set. We also make phosphor bronze wound mandolin singles in .024, .026, .036, and .040, along with plain steel loop-end singles, giving you additional options for replacing individual strings or putting together a custom combination.
How Mandolin Strings Work: 8 Strings, 4 Courses
If you’re coming to mandolin from guitar, the eight strings can look more complicated than they really are.
A standard mandolin has four courses, with two strings in each course. The two strings in a course are normally the same gauge and are tuned to the same pitch. You fret and pick the pair together as though it were one string.
Standard mandolin tuning is:
| Course | Note | Our Standard Set Construction |
|---|---|---|
| Lowest | G | Wound |
| D | Wound | |
| A | Plain steel | |
| Highest | E | Plain steel |
The tuning is G D A E, low to high, with each course tuned a perfect fifth above the one below it. These are the same four pitches used by a violin, although a mandolin has doubled courses rather than four individual strings.
That doubled-string construction is a big part of the sound and feel of a mandolin. When both strings in a course are tuned closely together and played at the same time, they produce the ringing, articulate character associated with the instrument.
Why Does a Mandolin Set List Only Four Gauges?
You’ll often see a mandolin set described with four gauges even though there are eight strings in the package.
That’s because each gauge is doubled.
Our Light set, for example, is listed as:
.010, .015, .024w, .036w
The complete set contains:
.010, .015, .024w, .036w, .010, .015, .024w, .036w
Each matching pair becomes one course.
The same principle applies to our Medium set.
Is This Guide for Your Instrument?
This guide covers the standard 8-string mandolin commonly tuned G D A E.
It does not cover every instrument in the mandolin family.
Mandolas, octave mandolins, and mandocellos use different scale lengths, pitch ranges, and tunings. A string set designed for a standard mandolin shouldn’t automatically be treated as appropriate for one of those instruments just because they’re part of the same instrument family.
A-style and F-style mandolins, on the other hand, refer primarily to body styles. Body shape alone doesn’t determine which string gauge you need. If you have a standard 8-string A-style or F-style mandolin tuned G D A E, our Light and Medium sets are the two complete sets we currently make for that application.
If you’re unsure what instrument you have, confirm its scale length, number of strings, and intended tuning before choosing a set.
How Mandolin String Construction Affects the Instrument
We hand-craft our mandolin strings in Akron, Ohio.
The wound strings in our mandolin sets use a 92/8 phosphor bronze cover wrap over a steel hexagonal core. These are the G and D courses in our standard sets.
The A and E courses use plain steel round wire with a loop-end lock twist.
This means a complete mandolin set isn’t made from one type of string. The lower courses need wound strings to reach their target pitches and gauges while maintaining a practical string construction, while the upper courses use plain steel.
Why Phosphor Bronze?
Phosphor bronze is widely used for acoustic instrument strings because of its warm, balanced response while still providing clarity and articulation.
We use a 92/8 phosphor bronze cover wrap on the wound strings in both of our mandolin sets. Because the Light and Medium sets use the same basic materials and construction, gauge becomes the primary difference when you’re choosing between them.
Light vs. Medium Mandolin Strings
We currently make two complete mandolin sets: Light and Medium.
Rather than thinking of Light and Medium as two completely different types of strings, think of them as two gauge combinations built around the same standard G D A E tuning and phosphor bronze construction.
Light Mandolin Strings: M1036PB
Our Light set uses:
.010 – .015 – .024w – .036w
Each gauge is doubled in the complete 8-string set.
Good starting point for: players who prefer a lighter feel under their fingers or want to reduce the amount of force needed to fret and bend the strings.
Medium Mandolin Strings: M1140PB
Our Medium set uses:
.011 – .015 – .026w – .040w
Again, each gauge is doubled.
Good starting point for: players who prefer a firmer feel and heavier lower courses.
Where the Two Sets Actually Differ
Looking at the gauges side by side makes the difference easier to understand:
| Course | Light | Medium | Difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| E | .010 | .011 | .001 |
| A | .015 | .015 | Same |
| D | .024w | .026w | .002 |
| G | .036w | .040w | .004 |
One detail worth noticing is that the A course is .015 in both sets.
The biggest difference is at the bottom of the instrument. Our Medium set moves from a .036 to a .040 on the G course and from a .024 to a .026 on the D course.
That makes the choice more specific than simply asking whether you want “light strings” or “medium strings.” You’re deciding how you want the instrument to feel across the courses, with the largest gauge changes occurring on the lowest wound strings.
Does Heavier Gauge Mean More Tension?
When pitch, scale length, and construction are otherwise the same, increasing string gauge generally increases tension.
That’s why our Medium set will feel firmer than our Light set on the courses where the gauge increases.
But gauge isn’t the only variable that determines string tension or feel. Scale length, target pitch, core and wrap dimensions, material, and overall construction all contribute.
For a standard mandolin using our two sets, the comparison is relatively straightforward because the intended tuning and basic construction remain the same. You’re primarily choosing between two gauge combinations.
That doesn’t mean Medium is automatically better because it’s heavier, or Light is automatically better because it’s easier to fret. The better choice is the one that gives you the response you want from your instrument.
Do Medium Mandolin Strings Sound Different?
Changing gauge can change how a mandolin responds, but we wouldn’t reduce the difference to a rule that Light is always “bright” and Medium is always “loud.”
Our Light set is the better starting point when a lighter feel is the priority. Our Medium set puts heavier gauges on the E, D, and G courses and can be a good choice when you prefer a firmer response and want to drive the instrument with a heavier set.
The mandolin itself matters too. Pick attack, setup, scale length, body construction, and the way the player drives the strings all contribute to the final sound.
This is why we recommend treating gauge as a playing and response choice rather than expecting a particular gauge to completely determine the tone of the instrument.
How to Choose the Right Mandolin Strings
For most players choosing between our current sets, the decision can be kept pretty simple.
1. Confirm That You Have a Standard Mandolin
Our two complete mandolin sets are intended for standard 8-string mandolins using four doubled courses.
If you have a mandola, octave mandolin, mandocello, or another related instrument, don’t choose a set simply because the package says mandolin.
2. Confirm Your Tuning
Standard mandolin tuning is G D A E.
String tension depends on target pitch, so alternate tunings can change how a given gauge feels and responds.
If you’re using standard G D A E tuning, our Light and Medium sets give you two straightforward starting points.
3. Decide How You Want the Strings to Feel
If you want the lighter of our two options, choose M1036PB Light.
If you prefer a firmer set with heavier E, D, and G courses, choose M1140PB Medium.
There’s no requirement that an experienced player use Medium or that a beginner use Light. Playing experience alone doesn’t determine the right gauge.
4. Consider Your Instrument and Setup
Mandolins can respond differently to changes in string gauge.
Moving between our Light and Medium sets changes the overall load on the instrument because three of the four courses change gauge. Depending on the mandolin and its setup, you may notice changes in feel, action, intonation, or response.
If you’re making a significant change from whatever is currently installed on the instrument, evaluate how the mandolin responds rather than assuming every gauge will behave identically.
5. Use Singles When You Need More Control
You don’t necessarily have to replace an entire set because one string breaks or because you want to experiment with one of the wound courses.
That’s where individual loop-end strings become useful.
Our Mandolin String Sets
We currently make two complete phosphor bronze mandolin sets.
Light Mandolin Strings – M1036PB
Gauges: .010, .015, .024w, .036w
Strings: 8, with each gauge doubled
Wound courses: 92/8 phosphor bronze over steel hex core
Plain courses: Steel round wire
Ends: Loop end
Good starting point for: standard G D A E mandolin players who prefer the lighter of our two complete sets.
Medium Mandolin Strings – M1140PB
Gauges: .011, .015, .026w, .040w
Strings: 8, with each gauge doubled
Wound courses: 92/8 phosphor bronze over steel hex core
Plain courses: Steel round wire
Ends: Loop end
Good starting point for: standard G D A E mandolin players who prefer a firmer feel and heavier lower courses.
You can compare both on our Mandolin Strings page.
Building a Custom Mandolin Set with Loop-End Singles
Our two complete sets cover Light and Medium gauges, but sometimes you need something between those combinations or simply need to replace an individual string.
We make Mandolin Phosphor Bronze Loop End Singles in:
.024w
.026w
.036w
.040w
Those are the wound gauges used across our Light and Medium mandolin sets.
We also make Plain Steel Loop End Singles, which gives players additional options when replacing plain strings or putting together a custom combination.
Why Use Mandolin Singles?
Singles can be useful when:
- You break one string and don’t need to replace the entire set.
- You want to replace a matching pair within one course.
- You want to experiment with a different wound gauge.
- You want to build a custom gauge combination rather than using one of our two complete pre-gauged sets.
When changing gauges, remember that the two strings within a normal unison course should be matched appropriately. Changing only one string in a pair to a different gauge can change the tension and response between the two strings you’re playing together.
Should You Change Mandolin Strings One at a Time?
There’s another practical consideration when restringing a mandolin: the bridge.
Many traditional mandolins use a floating bridge that’s held in position largely by string tension rather than being permanently fixed to the top.
Because of that, removing all eight strings at once can allow the bridge to move. If the bridge position changes, intonation can change with it.
When you’re simply replacing strings and don’t need to remove the bridge, changing them gradually can help keep the bridge in position. If the bridge does move, its position should be checked rather than assuming it can be placed anywhere on the top.
This is also one reason individual strings and course-by-course replacement can be useful when maintaining a mandolin.
How Often Should You Change Mandolin Strings?
There isn’t one replacement schedule that works for every mandolin player.
How quickly strings wear depends on how often you play, your hands, the environment, how the instrument is stored, and how much dirt and moisture accumulate on the strings.
Instead of changing strings according to an arbitrary number of days or weeks, pay attention to the instrument.
It may be time for a new set if the strings have lost the response you want, show visible corrosion or wear, become difficult to intonate consistently, or simply no longer sound and feel the way you expect.
Because a mandolin uses paired courses, it’s also important to pay attention to how the two strings in each course work together. A fresh string paired with a heavily worn string may not respond exactly like a matched pair of strings in similar condition.
Final Thoughts
Choosing mandolin strings doesn’t have to be complicated.
For a standard 8-string mandolin tuned G D A E, we currently make two complete sets. Our Light M1036PB set uses .010, .015, .024w, and .036w gauges. Our Medium M1140PB uses .011, .015, .026w, and .040w. Each gauge is doubled to create the instrument’s four courses.
Both sets use the same basic construction: 92/8 phosphor bronze on the wound G and D courses, plain steel on the A and E courses, and loop ends throughout. We hand-craft them here in Akron, Ohio.
That makes gauge the primary decision between our two sets. Start with Light if you prefer a lighter feel. Consider Medium if you prefer a firmer response and heavier lower courses.
And if neither complete combination is exactly what you need, our mandolin loop-end singles and plain steel loop-end singles give you additional options for replacing individual strings or putting together a custom combination.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many strings does a mandolin have?
A standard mandolin has 8 strings arranged in 4 courses of 2 strings each. The two strings in each course are normally the same gauge and tuned to the same pitch, so they’re played together as a pair.
What is standard mandolin tuning?
Standard mandolin tuning is G D A E, low to high. The courses are tuned in fifths, using the same pitches as the four strings of a violin.
Because a mandolin uses doubled courses, each of those notes is produced by a pair of strings rather than one string.
Why does a mandolin have 8 strings but only 4 gauges?
Each course uses two matching strings tuned to the same pitch. A complete set therefore contains two of each gauge.
Our Light set, for example, contains two .010s, two .015s, two .024 wound strings, and two .036 wound strings.
What gauge mandolin strings should I use?
There’s no single gauge that’s right for every mandolin player.
For standard G D A E tuning, our Light set uses .010, .015, .024w, and .036w, while our Medium set uses .011, .015, .026w, and .040w.
If you prefer a lighter feel, start with Light. If you prefer a firmer feel and heavier lower courses, Medium is worth considering.
What’s the difference between Light and Medium mandolin strings?
In our sets, the A course remains .015 in both.
Medium increases the E course from .010 to .011, the D course from .024w to .026w, and the G course from .036w to .040w.
When tuning, scale length, and construction remain the same, those heavier gauges increase tension on the courses where the gauge changes, resulting in a firmer feel.
Are the G and D mandolin strings wound?
In our standard mandolin sets, yes. The G and D courses use wound strings with a 92/8 phosphor bronze cover wrap over a steel hexagonal core. The A and E courses use plain steel strings.
Are mandolin strings loop end or ball end?
Our mandolin sets use loop ends. Many traditional mandolin tailpieces are designed around loop-end strings, but it’s still worth checking your instrument’s tailpiece when buying strings for an unfamiliar mandolin.
Can I mix Light and Medium mandolin string gauges?
Yes, provided you understand how the gauge changes will affect the individual courses.
We make phosphor bronze wound loop-end singles in .024, .026, .036, and .040, covering the wound gauges found in our Light and Medium sets. We also make plain steel loop-end singles.
For normal unison courses, keep the two strings within each pair appropriately matched rather than treating all eight strings as completely independent gauge choices.
Can I replace just one mandolin string?
Yes. Individual loop-end strings let you replace a broken or damaged string without buying an entire set.
If the other string in that course is significantly worn, however, replacing the pair can help keep the two strings more consistent in feel and response.
Can I use guitar strings on a mandolin?
A guitar string isn’t automatically suitable for a mandolin. Gauge, length, end type, construction, and intended pitch all matter.
Standard mandolins commonly use loop-end strings arranged in four doubled courses, so a dedicated mandolin set is the straightforward choice. If you’re using an individual string from another application, verify that its specifications are appropriate for the mandolin rather than choosing it based on gauge alone.
Do F-style and A-style mandolins need different strings?
Not simply because of the body shape.
A-style and F-style describe different mandolin body designs, but body style alone doesn’t determine string gauge. If both instruments are standard 8-string mandolins with comparable scale lengths and G D A E tuning, they can use the same type of mandolin string set.
Always consider the individual instrument, scale length, tuning, setup, and manufacturer’s recommendations when choosing a gauge.
Can I use standard mandolin strings on a mandola or octave mandolin?
Don’t assume so.
Mandolas, octave mandolins, mandocellos, and other members of the mandolin family can use different scale lengths, tunings, and string requirements. A set designed for a standard G D A E mandolin shouldn’t automatically be used on another instrument simply because it belongs to the mandolin family.
Do I need to adjust my mandolin when changing string gauge?
Not necessarily.
Moving between Light and Medium changes tension on three of the four courses in our sets. Depending on the instrument and its current setup, you may notice a change in feel, action, response, or intonation.
A small gauge change doesn’t automatically mean the instrument needs adjustment, but it’s worth evaluating how the mandolin responds after the new strings are installed and tuned to pitch.
