How to Restring an Acoustic Guitar, Step by Step

Quick Answer

Restringing a steel-string acoustic takes seven steps:

Loosen and remove the old strings.
Remove the bridge pins and clean the guitar.
Install the new strings at the bridge.
Wind the strings around the tuning posts.
Tune gradually and check the bridge pins.
Set the witness points.
Gently stretch and retune.

The part that trips people up on an acoustic is the bridge pin. On a conventional pinned bridge, the pin doesn't hold the string. The ball end seats against the bridge plate, a hardwood reinforcement under the guitar's top, and the pin keeps it in position there. Get that right, and the rest is careful winding and tuning.

What You'll Need

A new set of acoustic strings
A tuner
String cutters
A string winder, ideally one with a bridge pin puller notch
A soft microfiber cloth
Fretboard conditioner, only for unfinished rosewood or ebony fingerboards

A neck rest or folded towel under the neck keeps the guitar steady while you work.

Before You Begin

Is this guide for your guitar?

This guide covers steel-string acoustics. The steps below focus on a standard six-string steel-string acoustic. Twelve-string and baritone guitars follow similar principles, but string arrangement, tuning and hardware can differ. If you're not sure your guitar is built for steel strings, check the manufacturer's specifications. Never install steel strings on a guitar designed for nylon strings.

Bridge type	How the string attaches	Covered here?
Pinned bridge	Ball end drops through the bridge and is kept in place by a bridge pin	Yes
Pinless or through-bridge	String threads through the back of the bridge, no pins	Yes, see Step 3
Classical tie-block	Nylon string tied at the bridge, no ball end	No

Some acoustics, especially parlor and 12-fret models, have a slotted headstock with rollers instead of solid posts. The bridge end works the same way. At the headstock, feed the string through the roller hole and wind it onto the roller.

Take a photo first

Snap a picture of the headstock and bridge before you remove anything. It's an easy reference for which tuner each string goes to, which way each string winds onto its post, and which way the saddle faces.

One at a time, or all at once?

Both work. Changing one string at a time keeps tension on the neck and keeps the saddle in place. Taking them all off gives you a clear fingerboard to clean.

If you remove every string, watch the saddle. On many acoustics it isn't glued and can lift out. If it does, put it back facing exactly the way it came out, because the top of the saddle is usually shaped for intonation. On a guitar with an under-saddle pickup, make sure the saddle sits fully down in its slot.

Step-by-Step: How to Restring an Acoustic Guitar

Step 1: Loosen and remove the old strings

Turn each tuner until the string is completely slack. Never cut a string that's still under tension, because it can whip back and scratch the guitar or you.

Once a string is slack, unwind it from the tuner or cut it near the headstock. String ends are sharp, so handle them carefully.

Step 2: Remove the bridge pins and clean the guitar

Use the pin puller notch on your string winder to lift each pin straight up. If a pin won't budge, push the string a little way down into the hole first. That frees the ball end from the bridge plate, and the pin usually lifts out after that.

Avoid prying against the bridge with pliers or a screwdriver. If a pin remains stuck after the string is completely loose, have a guitar technician remove it rather than forcing it.

Keep the pins in order if they aren't identical, and set them where they won't roll away.

With the strings off, wipe down the fingerboard, bridge and headstock. If your fingerboard is unfinished rosewood or ebony, you can apply a little conditioner following its maker's directions. Don't use it on a finished fingerboard. It's also a good time to check for loose tuner nuts, a cracked pin or a worn nut slot.

Step 3: Install the new strings at the bridge

We suggest starting with the low E and working across to the high E. Check each string against the packet so it goes in the right hole.

Drop the ball end into the bridge hole, about an inch or so deep.
Push the bridge pin in after it. On conventional slotted pins, the groove faces the neck and the string sits in that groove.
Hold light pressure on the pin with one thumb and gently pull the string up with the other hand. You'll feel the ball end catch and seat against the bridge plate.
Press the pin down until it's snug. Don't force it.

If the pin rises as you pull the string, the ball end is caught on the pin instead of the bridge plate. Pull the pin, push the string a little deeper, and try again.

A small bend in the string about a half inch from the ball end can help it turn sideways and catch on the bridge plate. It's optional.

Unslotted pins or slotted bridges: some guitars use pins without a groove, with the slot cut into the bridge holes instead. On those, the string sits in the slot in the bridge, and the same seating steps apply.

Pinless bridges: feed the string through the hole at the back of the bridge and pull it through until the ball end stops against the bridge. Then route it over the saddle.

Step 4: Wind the strings around the tuning posts

Run the string over the saddle, down the fingerboard and through its nut slot. Check that it isn't twisted anywhere along the way.

Leave enough slack. Pull the string past its tuner post until it's straight, then let it back a couple of inches before feeding it through the post hole. As a starting guideline, aim for roughly two or three wraps on the wound strings and a few more on the plain strings. Neat wraps matter more than an exact count.

Follow the intended string path. Route the string to its correct tuning post, following the headstock's design and the original winding direction in your photo. Avoid unnecessary twists or sharp angles, and make sure the string sits correctly in its nut slot. On a common three-a-side headstock, the string usually comes off the inside of each post, toward the center of the headstock.

Wind downward. Keep light tension on the string with your free hand as you wind. Each wrap should sit just below the one before it, spiraling toward the face of the headstock. That helps the string seat in its nut slot.

Lock the string (optional). For extra grip, especially on plain strings, pass the loose end under the main string as it enters the post, then bend it back up over itself before winding. The first wrap traps the end. If your guitar has locking tuners, follow the tuner maker's instructions.

Step 5: Tune gradually and check the bridge pins

Bring the strings up toward pitch a little at a time, working across the guitar in several passes rather than tuning one string all the way before moving on. That lets the neck take up the tension evenly.

Keep a thumb resting on the bridge pins as the strings tighten. A pin can lift if its ball end hasn't fully seated. If one does, loosen that string and reseat it as in Step 3.

Once the strings are near pitch and holding, trim the excess at each tuner. Leave a short tail, and don't leave sharp ends sticking out.

Step 6: Set the witness points

A witness point is where the string makes firm contact with the saddle and the front edge of the nut. When each string is close to pitch, press it down gently just in front of the saddle, then just behind the nut. This helps the string seat cleanly at both contact points.

You'll hear the pitch drop slightly. That's normal. Retune.

Step 7: Gently stretch and retune

New strings need a short settling period. The wraps tighten on the posts, the ball ends settle at the bridge plate, and the strings seat at the nut and saddle.

Hook a finger under each string around the middle of the neck and lift it gently away from the fingerboard, moving along its length. Avoid pulling hard, especially on lighter strings. Then retune.

Repeat stretching and retuning as needed until the tuning becomes more stable. Two or three rounds is a useful starting point. If a string still won't settle after that, the cause may be elsewhere, such as a binding nut slot, a ball end that isn't fully seated, a loose tuner or a setup issue.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Pin groove facing the wrong way

On slotted pins, the groove should face the neck. If it doesn't, the string can't sit beside the pin properly, and the pin may not seat.

Ball end caught on the pin

This is a frequent cause of a pin that keeps lifting. Pull the string up firmly while holding the pin down, so the ball end seats against the bridge plate before you tune up.

Cutting strings under tension

Always loosen first. A string that snaps under tension can scratch the top or the headstock.

Too many or too few wraps

Too few and the string can slip. Too many and the wraps can overlap, which makes tuning less stable.

Losing the saddle

If you take every string off, the saddle can drop out. Put it back facing the same way it came out.

Skipping the stretch

Tuning once and playing straight away is a common reason new acoustic strings seem to drift. Stretching and retuning a few times helps them settle sooner.

Choosing Replacement Acoustic Strings

Acoustic sets combine plain steel strings on the high end with wound strings on the low end. Exactly which strings are wound varies by set, so check the packet. On our acoustic sets, the wound strings use a wrap wire over a high carbon steel hex core, and the wrap is what separates our lines. Every line installs the same way.

How to choose

Confirm your guitar is designed for steel strings. Check the manufacturer's specifications if you're unsure.
Match the string count and tuning. A 12-string needs a 12-string set, a baritone acoustic needs a baritone set, and Nashville tuning uses its own set.
Pick the feel you want. Lighter gauges feel softer under the fingers and heavier gauges feel firmer. Playing experience alone doesn't decide this.
Think about setup. Staying with the same gauge may reduce the likelihood of needing adjustments, but construction and tension can still differ between sets. Check relief, action and intonation after restringing.
Choose a wrap for the sound you're after. See our lines below.

Does a heavier gauge mean more tension?

Only when everything else stays the same. Tension depends on pitch, scale length and string construction as well as gauge. Heavier isn't automatically better, and lighter isn't automatically right for every guitar. Tone and volume come from the whole system: the guitar, its setup, your pick or fingers, and how you play.

Our acoustic lines

Phosphor Bronze: we describe it as warm and balanced, with clear highs and a full low end. It's our widest acoustic range, including 12-string, baritone and Nashville tuning sets.
Golden Bronze 80/20: an 80% copper, 20% zinc wrap that we describe as brighter and crisper.
Royal Bronze: our Fusion Wound phosphor bronze, with the wrap bonded to the core. We describe it as fuller and more even.
CRT Coated Phosphor Bronze: phosphor bronze with Corrosion Resistant Technology, for guitars that sit out between sessions or players who sweat.
American Roots Monel: a nickel and copper alloy wrap that we describe as warm, dry and focused.
Semi-Flat Silencers 80/20: 80/20 bronze with a polished outer wrap to cut finger squeak and slide noise.

Still deciding? Our Phosphor Bronze vs 80/20 Bronze and Coated vs Uncoated Guitar Strings guides compare the options in more detail.

When to Replace Strings

There's no fixed schedule. Watch for these signs instead:

The sound has gone dull or flat compared with a fresh set.
The strings won't stay in tune or won't intonate properly anymore.
You can see discoloration or corrosion, or feel grime on the wound strings.
A string has a kink, a flat spot from the frets, or a loose winding.

Our How Often Should You Change Guitar Strings? guide covers these signs in more detail.

Do you need a setup afterward?

Check how the guitar plays once the new strings have settled, even if you stayed in the same gauge. Buzzing, higher action, or notes going sharp or flat up the neck can mean the relief, action or intonation needs adjusting. If you're not comfortable adjusting a truss rod, a qualified tech can do it.

Final Thoughts

Restringing an acoustic mostly comes down to two things: seating the ball end against the bridge plate, and giving the new strings time to settle. Seat each pin correctly, wind neat downward wraps, tune up gradually, set your witness points, and stretch and retune until the tuning holds.

Take your time with those details and a new set will settle in and sound the way it was built to, whichever of our acoustic lines you choose.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which way should the groove on a bridge pin face?

On conventional slotted pins, toward the neck. The string sits in the groove as it comes up out of the bridge and over the saddle. If your pins have no groove, the slot is usually cut into the bridge holes instead.

Why does my bridge pin keep popping up?

Usually the ball end is caught on the tip of the pin instead of seated against the bridge plate. Loosen the string, pull the pin, push the string a little deeper, reinsert the pin, then pull the string up while holding the pin down.

How do I get a stuck bridge pin out?

Loosen the string completely and push it slightly down into the bridge hole to free the ball end. Then lift the pin with the notch on a string winder. If it still won't come out, have a guitar technician remove it rather than forcing it.

Should I change all my strings at once?

We suggest replacing the whole set so tone and feel match across the strings. Whether you remove them one at a time or all together is up to you. Removing them all makes cleaning easier. Just watch the saddle.

Is it safe to take all the strings off an acoustic guitar?

Yes, for a string change and a cleaning. Keep track of the saddle, which may come loose, and bring the new strings up to pitch gradually.

How many wraps should go around the tuner post?

Roughly two or three on the wound strings and a few more on the plain strings is a good starting point. Neat, non-overlapping wraps matter more than an exact count.

Do I need to stretch new acoustic strings?

Yes. Gently stretching and retuning new strings helps the wraps settle around the tuning posts and reduces the amount of retuning needed during your first playing session. Repeat as needed without pulling hard.

My new strings still won't stay in tune. What else could it be?

If stretching and retuning hasn't helped, check for a string binding in its nut slot, a ball end that isn't fully seated, a loose tuner, or a setup problem. A tech can check the nut and setup if you're unsure.

Why does my acoustic guitar string buzz after restringing?

Buzzing after a string change can come from a string not sitting correctly in the nut slot, a change in neck relief or action, or an issue with the saddle. First, make sure the string is installed correctly. If the buzzing continues, the guitar may need a setup adjustment.

Can I use electric guitar strings on an acoustic?

Some electric guitar strings may physically fit a steel-string acoustic, but they're designed for a different application. For acoustic guitars, we recommend strings designed specifically for them, such as our Phosphor Bronze or Golden Bronze 80/20 sets.

Can I put steel strings on a classical guitar?

No. A guitar designed for nylon strings shouldn't be strung with steel, and classical guitars usually use a tie-block bridge with no pins.

How do I restring a 12-string acoustic?

The process is the same, with twelve strings instead of six. The strings come in pairs called courses. On our 12-string sets, the top two courses are tuned in unison and the bottom four in octaves. Take extra care routing each string to the right tuner, and check the set's chart before you start.

Do I need to adjust my guitar after changing strings?

Possibly. A different gauge or construction can change the tension on the neck, which can affect relief, action and intonation. Let the new strings settle, then check how the guitar plays.

Can I reuse my old bridge pins?

Yes, as long as they aren't cracked or chipped and they still fit snugly. Replace any pin that's damaged.

Should I put a bend in the string near the ball end?

It's optional. A small bend about a half inch from the ball end can help it catch on the bridge plate. If your ball ends seat fine without it, skip it.